Metals

GWD_Goldschmied_REDUCED_2000px-36-1.jpg

Read about the metals used by Green World Diamonds here, as well as, which metal is best for you .

Cover picture: GWD stamp “Green World Diamonds AG” registered with the Swiss Precious Metals Control.

Metal composition at Green World Diamonds

Metals from Green World Diamonds

  • Best quality
  • security
  • Avoiding allergies

At Green World Diamonds, we attach great importance to quality and safety. In addition, we are extremely sensitive to allergies and intolerances from personal experience. That is why we go one step further with white gold than the EU directives that allow a low nickel content (the amount is limited due to allergies) and do not use any nickel at all. Our metal compositions:

Platinum PT95

Usually «platinum copper» → white color

  • Pt 960
  • Cu 40

Palladium white gold

Most expensive and noblest white gold. Completely without allergenic nickel.
Usually «palladium-white gold» → white color

  • Au 750
  • Pd 160

Yellow gold

Usually «full yellow gold» → deep yellow color

  • Au 750
  • Ag 127.5
  • Cu 122.5

Rose gold

Usually «rose gold» → rose color (goes towards yellow gold)

  • Au 750
  • Ag 90
  • Cu 160

Red gold

Usually «rose gold» → red color (color goes towards copper)

  • Au 750
  • Ag 40
  • Cu 210

platinum

  • Around 95% pure platinum as it occurs in nature
  • Hypoallergenic
  • Resistant to wear and tarnishing
  • No rhodium coating (as with white gold)

So:

  • Platinum / platinum belongs to the platinum metal group, as do palladium and rhodium
  • Off-white color → looks very similar to white gold
  • Platinum = much rarer than gold
  • Denser than gold, making a platinum ring feel heavier on your finger
    The heavier weight can play a major role, especially with earrings.
  • Very good properties
    → very well protected against corrosion
    → can be damaged less easily than other metals
  • Compared to gold, it has the advantage that there is no loss of material due to damage to its surface; it is only moved, but not removed

gold

Jewelry is not made of pure gold (24 carat)!
Instead, gold in jewelry is a gold alloy mixed with various metals.

  • Gold 24 carat = orange and very soft
  • Jewelers mix it with many different metals including copper, silver, nickel, and zinc to make alloys of different colors and strengths
  • There are many different gold alloys; The most common in Switzerland are 585 gold (14 carat) and 750 gold (18 carat). The numbers indicate the fine gold content in per mille; 14 carat has 58.5% fineness and the classic 750 gold has a fineness of 75%. An 18-carat gold ring consists of around 75 percent gold and 25 percent other metals
  • Share of other precious metals (nickel, copper, silver, palladium, platinum, rhodium, iridium, etc.) cannot be seen from the stamp!
  • Gold alloys can show any color in the rainbow
    → Yellow, white and rose gold = most commonly used for rings
    → Recently, black and other colors are also gaining popularity

White & gray gold

There is no such thing as «white gold» in nature
= Collective term for gold alloys

Rhodium plating

  • Developed in 1912/13 as an inexpensive substitute for platinum (for a long time platinum was massively more expensive than gold) for jewelry purposes. Objective: easy to process, tarnish-resistant material in which colorless diamonds could excellently show their effect
  • White gold = collective term for gold alloys which, through the addition of clearly discolored additional metals, result in a pale white gold alloy
  • Alloy additives are mainly the platinum metal palladium, (earlier very often) nickel or silver
  • The rhodium coating can wear out over the years and must then be renewed (if the quality is cheaper, the yellow gold appears, the more expensive palladium-white gold remains white)

Nickel-containing white gold “white gold”

Nickel allergy: The nickel content can cause allergic reactions on the skin!

Nickel is often used because it is a cheap way to make white gold.
Green World Diamonds does NOT use any metals containing nickel!

Palladium white gold “gray gold”

  • Noble & more expensive alternative
  • Lighter than platinum (e.g. often relevant for earrings)
  • Better suited for certain pieces of jewelry because of the processing
  • Comparatively softer, although there are different recipes from hard to soft alloys
  • Multi-component alloys with up to six components
  • The basic color of the palladium-based gold mixtures is generally darker, just “grayer” than that of the nickel-based white gold
  • Palladium addition of approx. 13-16% must be chosen higher than with nickel-white gold in order to discolor the entire mixture in a comparable way
  • Processing properties, such as machinability, which is required for machine turning, for example of wedding rings, place different demands on the tools
  • Casting properties (higher melting point and higher surface tension of the melt) also differ from the nickel-based counterpart. Structural toughness of the alloys increases e.g. B. the effort of high-gloss polishing
  • Rhodium-plated = rhodium coating (platinum secondary metal) → color improvement to pure / silver-like white + improved scratch resistance

Yellow gold

  • Most popular gold color due to its high recognition value worldwide
  • Warm, yellowish shade
  • Yellow gold alloy similar to 24 carat fine gold
  • Made of fine gold with silver and copper
  • Ratio affects the color
  • As the gold content decreases, the depth of the yellow tone decreases very quickly
  • The color ranges from light yellow with a clear proportion of silver to yellow-orange with the inverse proportion to the addition of copper

Red & rose gold

  • Pink / red color (due to high copper content)
  • Fine gold, copper and, if necessary, some silver to improve the mechanical workability
  • Relatively high copper content, which is significantly higher than that of silver, is responsible for the “red” color and hardness of the material, which gives it its name
  • The color is similar to copper
  • Certain gold shades are regionally popular
    → East & South Europe: rather dark / strongly colored reddish gold alloys

Metal choice tips

Which metal should you choose? How should it be forged? What goes with what? Read more about it in our Jewelry Guide .