Gold & Platinum – Metals & Alloys

Read about the metals used by Green World Diamonds here, as well as, which metal is best for you .

Cover picture: GWD stamp “Green World Diamonds AG” registered with the Swiss Precious Metals Control.

Comparison of precious metals for engagement rings, wedding rings & jewelry – Which is the best?

💛 Yellow gold (750 / 18K)
✅ + Classic, warm gold tone, timeless & particularly skin-friendly
❌ – Softer than platinum, may get scratches

🌷 Rose gold (750 / 18K)
✅ + Romantic, soft color, flatters all skin tones
❌ – Contains copper, which can trigger skin reactions in some people

❤️ Red gold (750 / 18K)
✅ + Intense, reddish tone with vintage flair, particularly resistant
❌ – Higher copper content makes it harder, but can irritate sensitive skin

⚪ Palladium white gold (750 / 18K) without rhodium
✅ + Naturally bright, slightly warmer shade of white, no plating required
❌ – Less cool white than platinum or rhodium-plated white gold

⚪✨ Palladium white gold (750 / 18K) with rhodium
✅ + Brilliant white look, close to platinum look
❌ – Must be regularly replated (approx. every 1-2 years) -> Additional effort and costs

👑 Platinum (950 / 95%)
✅ + Extremely durable, natural cool white tone, highest purity
❌ – Dense metal, therefore heavier & more expensive than gold

Metal alloys at Green World Diamonds

Metals from Green World Diamonds

• Recycled metals (gold & platinum) -> RJC certified (Responsible Jewellery Council)
• Best quality
• security
• Avoiding allergies

At Green World Diamonds, we attach great importance to quality and safety. In addition, we are extremely sensitive to allergies and intolerances from personal experience. That is why we go one step further with white gold than the EU directives that allow a low nickel content (the amount is limited due to allergies) and do not use any nickel at all. Our metal compositions:

Palladium white gold

Most expensive and noblest white gold. Completely without allergenic nickel.
Usually “palladium white gold” → white color

• Au 750
• Pd 160

Yellow gold

Usually «full yellow gold» → deep yellow color

• Au 750
• Ag 127.5
• Cu 122.5

Rose gold 4N

As a rule, “rose gold 4N” → rosé color (goes in the direction of yellow gold in terms of color).

• Au 750
• Ag 90
• Cu 160

Red gold

Usually «rose gold» → red color (color goes towards copper)

• Au 750
• Ag 40
• Cu 210

Platinum PT95

• Around 95% pure platinum as it occurs in nature
• Hypoallergenic
• Resistant to wear and tarnishing
• No rhodium coating (as with white gold)

Advantages, disadvantages, history, chemistry of precious metals

platinum

• Platinum / platinum belongs to the platinum metal group, as do palladium and rhodium
• Off-white color → looks very similar to white gold
• Platinum = much rarer than gold
• Denser than gold, so a platinum ring feels heavier on the finger
  The heavier weight can play a major role, especially with earrings.
• Very good properties
  → Very well protected against corrosion
  → Can be damaged less easily than other metals
• Compared to gold, it has the advantage that there is no loss of material due to damage to its surface; it is only moved, but not removed

gold

Jewelry is not made of pure gold (24 carat)!
Instead, gold in jewelry is a gold alloy mixed with various metals.

• Gold 24 carat = orange and very soft
• Jewelers mix it with many different metals including copper, silver, nickel, and zinc to make alloys of different colors and strengths
• There are many different gold alloys; The most common in Switzerland are 585 gold (14 carat) and 750 gold (18 carat). The numbers indicate the fine gold content in per mille; 14 carat has 58.5% fineness and the classic 750 gold has a fineness of 75%. An 18-carat gold ring consists of around 75 percent gold and 25 percent other metals
• Share of other precious metals (nickel, copper, silver, palladium, platinum, rhodium, iridium, etc.) cannot be seen from the stamp!
• Gold alloys can show any color in the rainbow
  → Yellow, white and rose gold = most commonly used for rings
  → Recently, black and other colors are also gaining popularity

White & gray gold

There is no “white gold” in nature
= collective term for gold alloys

Rhodium plating

• Developed in 1912/13 as an inexpensive substitute for platinum (for a long time platinum was massively more expensive than gold) for jewelry purposes. Objective: easy to process, tarnish-resistant material in which colorless diamonds could excellently show their effect
• White gold = collective term for gold alloys which, through the addition of clearly discolored additional metals, result in a pale white gold alloy
• Alloy additives are mainly the platinum metal palladium, (earlier very often) nickel or silver
• The rhodium coating can wear out over the years and must then be renewed (if the quality is cheaper, the yellow gold appears, the more expensive palladium-white gold remains white)

Nickel-containing white gold “white gold”

Nickel allergy: The nickel content can cause allergic reactions on the skin!
Nickel is often used because it is a cheap way to make white gold.
Green World Diamonds does NOT use any metals containing nickel!

Palladium white gold “gray gold”

• Noble & more expensive alternative
• Lighter than platinum (e.g. often relevant for earrings)
• Better suited for certain pieces of jewelry because of the processing

• Comparatively softer, although there are different recipes from hard to soft alloys
• Multi-component alloys with up to six components
• The basic color of the palladium-based gold mixtures is generally darker, just “grayer” than that of the nickel-based white gold
• Palladium addition of approx. 13-16% must be chosen higher than with nickel-white gold in order to discolor the entire mixture in a comparable way
• Processing properties, such as machinability, which is required for machine turning, for example of wedding rings, place different demands on the tools
• Casting properties (higher melting point and higher surface tension of the melt) also differ from the nickel-based counterpart. Structural toughness of the alloys increases e.g. B. the effort of high-gloss polishing
• Rhodium-plated = rhodium coating (platinum secondary metal) → color improvement to pure / silver-like white + improved scratch resistance

Yellow gold

• Most popular gold color due to its high recognition value worldwide
• Warm, yellowish shade

• Yellow gold alloy similar to 24 carat fine gold
• Made of fine gold with silver and copper
• Ratio affects the color
• As the gold content decreases, the depth of the yellow tone decreases very quickly
• The color ranges from light yellow with a clear proportion of silver to yellow-orange with the inverse proportion to the addition of copper

Red & rose gold

• Pink / red color (due to high copper content)

• Fine gold, copper and, if necessary, some silver to improve the mechanical workability
• Relatively high copper content, which is significantly higher than that of silver, is responsible for the “red” color and hardness of the material, which gives it its name
• The color is similar to copper
• Certain shades of gold are popular in certain regions
  → Eastern & Southern Europe: rather darker/stronger reddish gold alloys

Advantages and disadvantages of white gold compared to platinum

Should you choose white gold or platinum for your piece of jewelry or engagement ring?

White gold and platinum are both popular metals for making jewelry, especially for engagement rings and wedding bands. Both metals have their own advantages and disadvantages, which should be taken into account.

Advantages of platinum compared to white gold:

✅ Platinum is a natural element of the chemistry periodic table. PT95 is almost pure platinum as it occurs in nature
✅ Platinum is harder than white gold
✅ Platinum has no material erosion
✅ Platinum is hypoallergenic and therefore ideal for allergy sufferers
🛑 Platinum is generally more expensive than gold
🛑 Platinum is heavier than gold

1. Higher hardness: Platinum is a harder metal than white gold, which means that it is more resistant to scratches and wear.
2. Natural white: In contrast to white gold, which often has to be coated with rhodium to maintain its white color, platinum retains its natural white color by nature.
3. Hypoallergenic: Platinum is hypoallergenic and therefore a good choice for people with sensitive skin or allergies to certain metals.

Disadvantages of platinum compared to white gold:

1. Price: Platinum is generally more expensive than white gold, as it is a rarer and heavier metal. Above all, the processing is more complex and more expensive.
2. Weight: Due to its higher density, platinum is heavier than white gold. This can be uncomfortable for some people, especially if they are sensitive to the weight of the jewelry. There are also pieces of jewelry such as larger earrings where the weight is more important.

Advantages of white gold compared to platinum:

✅ White gold is generally cheaper than platinum
✅ White gold is lighter than platinum
✅ White gold is versatile and often easier to work with
🖤 rocky biker look with pure palladium white gold without rhodium
🛑 Rhodium plating?
🛑 White gold is less hard than platinum

1. Price: White gold is generally less expensive than platinum and therefore an attractive option for those looking for a high-quality piece of jewelry at a lower price.
2. Lighter: White gold is lighter than platinum due to its lower density and may therefore be more comfortable to wear, especially for people who prefer lightweight jewelry.
3. Versatility: White gold can be more easily produced in different shades and alloys, allowing for a wider range of design possibilities.

Disadvantages of white gold compared to platinum:

1. Rhodium plating: White gold has a naturally yellowish hue and therefore often needs to be plated with rhodium to achieve its white color. This coating can wear off over time and requires regular maintenance.
   Pure palladium white gold, which consists only of the two components palladium and yellow gold, is not yellowish but slightly grayish black, which gives it a rocky biker look and can be left as it is if it is a high-quality alloy, without rhodium plating.
2. Hardness: Compared to platinum, white gold is somewhat softer and therefore more susceptible to scratches and wear.

White gold vs. platinum – Which is the best choice for you?

When deciding between white gold with palladium and platinum, several factors play a role – from color and durability to ease of care. Both metals are high-quality, durable and elegant, but there are subtle differences:

🔹 Color & aesthetics: White gold has a slightly warmer shade, while platinum has a cool, silvery white tone– both without rhodium plating.
🔹 Durability & resistance: Platinum is naturally even more robust, while our special white gold alloy is also extremely resistant due to its high palladium content.
🔹 Care & maintenance: White gold with palladium does not require plating and remains maintenance-free. Platinum develops an elegant patina over time, which can be polished or left as is.
🔹 Weight & feel: Platinum is denser and heavier, which makes for a luxurious feel – white gold is somewhat lighter and more comfortable for everyday wear.
🔹 Price & lasting value: Platinum is considered more exclusive, but has recently fallen in price and is now an attractive alternative to white gold.

Both options offer the highest quality and an elegant look – whether for an engagement ring, wedding ring or luxury jewelry. Find the metal that perfectly matches your style and requirements. 💍✨

Why do without rhodium plating?

Our white gold with palladium alloy is the best choice for long-lasting, easy-care jewelry. It is as white as white gold can naturally be – and stays that way forever. No fading, no re-plating, no maintenance! ✨

✅ Stays white forever – No discoloration, no wear, no plating required.
🔄 No constant replating – rhodium wears out after 1-2 years and must be replaced regularly.
💎 High-quality alloy – 18K gold (75% gold, 15% palladium) = 90% precious metals.
🌟 Naturally bright shine – Noble, soft white tone, slightly warmer than rhodium.
💪 Extremely durable – High abrasion resistance, made to last a lifetime.
💍 Ideal for diamonds – strong hold & secure gemstone setting.
🛠️ Simple repairs & adjustments – No need to remove the rhodium coating, no additional costs (minimum CHF 100).
🌱 Sustainable & environmentally friendly – No aggressive chemicals, no metal wear.
👀 Honest & transparent – customers see the real, lasting color of their jewelry.
👑 Luxury & authenticity – High-quality brands show the true quality of white gold.
💫 The best white gold you can get – pure, authentic & timeless.

Platinum as an alternative – “The king of precious metals” 👑

Platinum has fallen in price and is now a more affordable alternative to white gold – with superior properties. 💸

🏅 Extremely durable & resistant – Platinum is even more robust and retains its color forever.
🌟 Natural, cool white tone – No plating, no fading.
💎 Higher purity – Platinum alloys consist of 95% pure platinum.
💍 Especially recommended for engagement rings – Maximum durability and the finest look.

Platinum is the perfect choice for anyone looking for a metal that lasts forever & embodies true exclusivity. ✨

14 carat gold

Could 14 carat gold discolor?

Yes, 14 carat gold can discolor, depending on the alloy, skin contact and external influences. Here are the possible causes:

Why can 14K gold discolor?

1️⃣ Skin Chemistry & pH – Some people have higher skin acidity, which can oxidize or tarnish the gold.
2️⃣ Metal Alloy – 14K gold contains 58.5% pure gold, the rest is alloy metals such as copper, silver or nickel. Copper in particular can react with oxygen and form a darker patina.
3️⃣ Sweat & Cosmetics – Lotions, perfumes, chlorinated water & sweat can cause chemical reactions with the alloy metals.
4️⃣ Sulphur & chemicals – Sulphur-containing substances in the air, e.g. in hot springs or some cosmetics, can cause the metal to tarnish.

What colors can occur?

🔸 Yellow tint or dull shine – When the outer rhodium layer (in white gold) wears off.
🔸 Darker or reddish discoloration – Oxidation of copper in the alloy.
🔸 Greenish stains – Reaction with skin acid or moisture in alloys with a high copper content.

How do I avoid discoloration?

✅ Clean regularly with mild soapy water and a soft cloth.
✅ Avoid contact with chemicals (perfume, cleaning agents, chlorine, perspiration).
✅ Store in a dry & airtight place when not worn.
✅ Renew rhodium plating (for white gold).

Conclusion:
14K gold is durable, but more susceptible to discoloration than higher-carat gold due to alloying metals. With good care, however, it remains radiant for a long time! ✨

💎⛓️ Which chain thickness suits which diamond pendant?

To ensure that your diamond pendant is not only stylish but also safe to wear, choosing the right chain is crucial. Especially with high-quality materials such as 18k gold or platinum, stability is just as important as aesthetics. For necklaces with diamond pendants, it is crucial that the chain thickness matches the size and weight of the diamond so that it:

• wears safely
• does not look too delicate or too bulky
• results in a harmonious overall picture

Here is a rough recommendation for anchor chains made of 18K gold or platinum in combination with a diamond pendant:

🔸 Recommended chain thicknesses according to Carat size

The information is based on:

🔹 Industry standard experience from jewelry manufacturing
🔹 Recommendations from many independent goldsmiths & international standards
🔹 Technical aspects such as tensile force, chain link stability and wear for various precious metals

✨ Additional tips:

• With platinum, the chain can often be selected somewhat finer, as it is heavier and harder. 🤍 Platinum is particularly robust, but also heavier – for large diamonds, we recommend platinum chains from 1.1 mm to ensure longevity.
• A sturdy lobster clasp is also recommended for diamonds weighing 1 ct or more.
• For pendants with a movable eyelet (bail): it is better to choose a more stable chain so that the pendant does not move uncontrollably. For additional security, we recommend +0.1 mm more if the pendant slides freely on the chain via an eyelet (bail) – this reduces friction and increases wearing comfort.

Metal choice tips

Which metal should you choose? How should it be forged? What goes with what? Does the metal, gold, platinum influence the diamond color?
Read more about this in our Jewelry Guide.